What Drag Factor Should You Use - and Should It Change by Distance?

Ask ten rowers what drag factor they use, and you’ll likely get a mix of answers. Some swear by keeping it low and light; others won’t touch anything except the highest damper setting. And then there are those who insist that 130 is the only correct choice because it feels closest to rowing a single scull.

With so many opinions, it’s no wonder athletes get confused. What’s really happening when you move the lever on the side of the machine, and should your drag factor stay constant or change based on the distance or type of session you’re doing?

In this article, I’ll explain what drag factor is and how to determine the right setting for your training. All guidance refers specifically to Concept2 rowing machines.

What Is Drag Factor?

“Between each stroke, the Performance Monitor measures how much your flywheel is slowing down to determine how sleek or slow your ‘boat’ is. This rate of deceleration is called the drag factor”. — Concept2.

This deceleration depends on how much air gets into the flywheel housing, which is controlled by the damper lever. With a higher damper setting, more air enters the flywheel, so it slows down faster and the drag factor increases. With a lower damper setting, less air gets in, so the flywheel keeps spinning longer and the drag factor decreases.

This is why two ergs set to the same damper number can feel completely different. Drag factor can vary widely from one machine to another, and even on the same machine at different times. Anything that affects airflow will change how quickly the flywheel decelerates, including:

• Dust and dirt inside the flywheel housing

• Altitude (thinner air = lower drag)

• Air temperature or humidity (cold, dense air increases drag; warm or humid air reduces it)

• Age or general condition of the machine

Because airflow varies between machines, an erg set to 5 might produce a drag factor of 110 on one unit and 135 on another. As Concept2 notes, machines "adjusted to the same drag factors will feel similar, regardless of what damper setting is used.” Using drag factor rather than the damper number is therefore the only reliable way to get consistent resistance and feel on any machine.

How to Set Your Drag Factor

To find your drag factor, open More Options → Display Drag Factor on the monitor. Take a few strokes and note the number. Adjust the damper lever up for higher drag or down for lower drag until you reach your preferred setting.

On a clean machine, a damper setting of around 3–6 typically produces a drag factor in the 110–130 range, but this can vary significantly. That’s why checking the monitor is the only reliable way to know your actual drag factor.

Troubleshooting Low Drag Factor

If your drag factor seems unusually low, even with the damper set high, it usually means the flywheel isn’t getting enough airflow. If this happens, there are a couple of simple steps you can take to fix it:

1. Clean the flywheel housing

Dust, dirt and chalk inside the fan cage are the most common cause of low drag factor. A build-up of debris restricts airflow and prevents the flywheel from slowing down normally. Concept2 provide instructions on how to clean the flywheel safely, which you can find here.

2. The machine may need servicing

If cleaning doesn’t improve the drag factor, the issue may be due to wear, damaged parts, or general maintenance needs. In that case, the machine will likely need servicing.

How Drag Factor Changes the Feel of the Stroke

Different drag factors don’t change how strong you are; they change how the stroke feels. When you increase drag, the flywheel slows down more between strokes, so you have to overcome more inertia with each drive. That makes the stroke feel heavier and demands more muscular recruitment. With lower drag, the flywheel keeps more of its speed, which rewards smoother rhythm, aerobic efficiency, and technical precision.

A higher drag factor typically feels:

• Heavier at the catch

• Slower to accelerate

• More grindy

• Harder to sustain at higher stroke rates

• More fatiguing on the grip, forearms, and lower back

High drag often encourages muscling the stroke rather than moving the handle smoothly. It is not meaningful strength training, and relying on it can cause athletes to miss out on the gains that come from improving efficiency and timing.

A lower drag factor usually feels:

• Lighter and faster at the catch

• Smoother and more rhythmic

• Easier to rate up

• Less taxing on the grip and back

• More dependent on timing and sequencing than raw force

Lower drag tends to promote cleaner technique, especially in longer pieces.

Finding the sweet spot

Both very high and very low drag have drawbacks. High drag increases strain on the muscles and makes it harder to maintain good form as fatigue sets in. Very low drag can make it difficult to generate meaningful force, so you get less return from each stroke. Finding the right drag factor is about finding the sweet spot, rather than letting habit or preference pull you toward the extremes.

What Drag Factor Should You Use?

Before thinking about changing drag factor for different distances or sessions, it’s important to establish a baseline: a default drag factor you use for most of your rowing. This baseline becomes the reference point for any adjustments you make later.

The flywheel should slow enough between strokes to give you something to “connect” to, but not so much that every stroke feels heavy. Your aim is to find a setting where you can maintain good technique as fatigue builds. If you find yourself losing rhythm, shortening your stroke, or fatiguing quickly during longer pieces, your baseline is probably too high.

In the image below, I’ve included my guideline ranges for drag factor. Where you sit within the range will depend on several factors. If you are tall, heavy, do a lot of strength work, or have significant rowing experience, you’ll likely sit toward the top of the range, especially if several of these apply. If you are shorter, lighter, or relatively new to training, the lower end will likely be a better fit. British Rowing’s recommendations are broadly similar. (You can view them here) 

Children, older adults, or those managing long-term conditions affecting the core, back, pelvis, hips, knees, or ankles should generally start below the suggested range for their category and may benefit from a drag factor between 95–115. This aligns with British Rowing’s safety guidance, which recommends lower starting points for younger rowers.

If you’re unsure where you sit within the range, a short testing protocol can help. Choose a repeatable piece, for example, 3 x 2 minutes with consistent rest, and row each interval at a slightly different drag factor. Note your split, stroke rate, perceived effort, and how well you maintained your technique. Most rowers quickly identify a “sweet spot” where they can produce strong splits without feeling rushed or overloaded.

Olympic champion Caryn Davies also supports a moderate approach: “I recommend using a drag around 120–135, depending on how big and strong the athlete is.” She adds that going too far outside this range often leads to “diminishing returns and increased fatigue.”

Should Drag Factor Change With Distance?

This is an area where opinions differ. There’s no right or wrong, only what works for you. Some rowers prefer to keep the same drag factor for everything, while others adjust depending on the session. For example, New Zealand Olympic Champion Eric Murray has said, “When I used the Concept2 Indoor Rower I always used a 130 drag,” and he not only had phenomenal on-water success, but also set multiple erg world records.

By contrast, Phil Clapp (world record holder in 500m and 1 minute), takes a different approach. In an interview with British Rowing about preparing for a 100m test, he noted that drag factor is "highly individual", but suggested "starting around 25 points higher than your typical 2k setting."

Here’s my perspective: I think for the vast majority of your training, you should use your baseline drag factor. There are, however, a few situations where increasing your drag factor can be helpful. In my experience, this applies only to single, all-out test pieces of 1000m or less. These short, maximal attempts are the only times where I would recommend raising your drag factor above baseline.

In these sprint efforts, a modest increase in drag factor can give you a stronger return on each stroke. Because the piece is so brief, the risk of technical breakdown or fatigue-related injury is much lower than in longer rows.

In the image below, I’ve included guideline increases. These suggestions apply only to single, maximal attempts. If you’re performing intervals, e.g. 500m repeats or 1-minute repeats, I still recommend sticking with your baseline drag factor, as the goal in interval training is consistency and repeatability, not peak power per stroke.

Drag Factor for On-Water Rowers

If you row on the water, it can be helpful to understand how drag factor relates to the feel of different boat types. While drag factor does not directly replicate hydrodynamic drag, the way the flywheel slows between strokes can roughly mirror the sense of connection and load you experience in various shells.

Concept2 explain the relationship like this: “At a damper setting of 1-4, the indoor rower feels like a sleek racing shell; at the higher numbers, the indoor rower feels like a slow rowboat.” This analogy is about feel rather than physics, but it helps frame how lighter or heavier drag settings can resemble the rhythm of different boats.

If you row on the water, it can be useful to choose a drag factor that aligns with the type of boat you train in; for instance, athletes spending most of their time in small boats often work around a drag factor of about 130 to reinforce the desired timing and connection. More broadly, your choice should reflect the purpose of your training: if your indoor work is aimed at supporting on-water performance, or you’re preparing for events such as GB Trials where a specific drag factor is mandated, using that drag as your baseline helps ensure the stroke rhythm and loading feel familiar.

However, if you’re an on-water rower entering an indoor rowing race, the priorities shift. Choose the drag factor that enables your best splits rather than trying to replicate boat feel. Indoor racing is a separate discipline, and drag should be set to maximise performance rather than imitation.

Can Your Optimal Drag Factor Change?

In short: yes. Your optimal drag factor isn’t a fixed setting you keep for life. It changes as you change and may shift over time.

There are many reasons someone’s preferred drag factor might increase:

• growing from a teenager into a physically stronger adult

• accumulating more rowing experience and better technical control

• significant improvements in strength and power (e.g., adding serious weight to the barbell)

Likewise, it’s very common for someone’s optimal drag factor to decrease:

• with age or reduced muscle mass

• after joint replacements or major surgeries

• following pregnancy and childbirth

• when managing long-term conditions

During my rowing peak, when I set most of my world records, my baseline drag factor was 125. This is relatively high for someone of my build (5'4", 57 kg), but at the time I had the strength to support it: I was deadlifting twice my bodyweight, benching my bodyweight, and able to do chin-ups with 27kg strapped to me. That level of strength meant I could maintain rhythm and technique at a drag factor that might be inefficient for many athletes of my size.

Since then, my situation has changed. Endometriosis surgery involving several internal organs, along with chronic pelvic pain, has had a significant effect on my physiology and training capacity. I now row far better with a baseline drag factor of 110 - a setting that allows me to hold good form and train consistently without unnecessary strain. This may change again in the future, and that’s the point: your optimal drag factor is allowed to change.

As your body adapts, your goals shift, or your circumstances evolve, your baseline may move up or down. Periodically reassessing your drag factor ensures you’re using the most effective and sustainable setting for your current training.

Conclusion

Drag factor is one of the simplest ways to improve how the erg feels and how effectively you move on it. The right setting helps you row with better rhythm, efficiency, and power. Next time you sit down at the erg, check your drag factor and choose the setting that helps you row at your best.

If you’d like support in finding your ideal drag factor or improving your rowing more broadly, I offer personalised guidance through my custom programmes and technique transformation sessions.